Sunday, April 17, 2011

How To Make Pysanky (Ukrainian Easter Eggs)



I made these pysanky last year


HOW TO MAKE PYSANKY (Ukrainian Easter Eggs)
(pysanka - singular, pysanky - plural)

PART ONE: HOW THEY ARE MADE
I was taught how to make pysanky by my father John, who was a first generation Ukrainian-American. My grandparents were from the Carpathian Mountain region of Lviv, Ukraine. Designs on the eggs are fundamentally traditional, passed down generation to generation, and differences in styles are mainly regional.





What are pysanky?
Pysanki, or pysanky (pronounced: puh-sahn-key) are Ukrainian Easter eggs. They are made from real chicken eggs. The most interesting thing about them, aside from their intricate, beautiful designs, is the way they are made: The designs are not painted on, but are done in a wax-resist technique using hot bees wax. The process is similar to batik.



How do you make pysanky?
Basically, you start with a plain white egg. You begin by drawing designs on the egg in hot bees wax with a pen-like tool called a kistka (stylus) and whatever areas you cover with wax will remain white. 


When you are finished covering the areas that you want to keep white, the egg is then dipped into a dye bath of the lightest color, such as yellow. The white areas that you have covered in wax will not absorb the yellow dye and will remain white because they are beneath the wax. 


 Once the egg is the desired shade of yellow, you remove it from the dye, dry it off completely, and then, again using the kistka and hot wax, you cover the areas of the egg that you want to keep yellow. 


Then the egg goes into the next, darker dye, such as orange, and the process is repeated until you reach your final, darkest dye bath…and so on and so on until you have finished your design in wax. 


In the end you will have an egg that has a lot of wax on it! The last step is the most fun: you carefully melt away all the wax and the colorful design is revealed!



You do not need to use many colors, but traditionally the main colors used are: yellow, orange, red, brick, brown, and black. 

Nowadays you can buy the egg dyes in many shades such as green, purple, blue (light, dark, royal), turquoise, pink, fuchsia, scarlet, etc. 


One important note: you MUST use dyes made especially for pysanki. These dyes are poisonous and should not be used around or by children. 


Also, the egg should never be eaten.


Sometimes I will use only one dye bath, such as purple. First I will wax the areas that I want to keep white, then dip the egg in purple, then the result will be a purple and white egg. Two-tone eggs are beautiful!


PART TWO: TOOLS AND PREPERATION


Supplies Needed:

Many paper towels
Mason jars or large peanut butter jars with lids
boiling water
regular white vinegar
large spoons for mixing dyes and dipping eggs
pysanki dyes
a candle for heating kistka and also for removing wax from egg when finished
matches or lighter
Block of beeswax made specifically for pysanky
kistka (stylus)
pencil with eraser for sketching designs on eggs
chicken eggs
optional: pysanky how-to book with designs and instructions
straight pin and tool for blowing out inside of egg




Gathering supplies:
I have found that my local AC Moore carries pysanki supplies, but only seasonally, and the dyes tend to sell out fast, so when I see them I stock up! 





To do the day before: Make your dyes

Mix dyes according to package directions. It is best to prepare the dyes the day before you are going to use them, because most directions instruct you to use boiling hot water, and it takes the dyes while to cool down. Be sure to follow the mixing directions exactly, especially when making the orange dye, in which vinegar is NOT added. Vinegar IS needed for most of the dye colors. Pysanky dyes are PERMANENT and if you spill them they will stain just about any surface including clothes and tabletops…use with caution!




Prepare your eggs:
I use large or extra large chicken eggs. You can use whatever size you like. Try to purchase ones that do not have dates stamped on each shell, as that stamp will usually show through your finished design. Use only raw eggs, and be sure to remove them from the refrigerator for a few hours before you begin working with them so that they are room temperature. Cold eggs will sweat and be impossible to work with! Do not attempt to warm them by putting them in warm water or by any other method. Just remove them from the fridge the night before and let them naturally become room temperature. Do not keep them in Styrofoam egg cartons, as these will retain moisture. Use only cardboard egg cartons to hold and store your eggs.


The Kistka (stylus)

Kistkas come in three basic sizes, fine, medium and heavy.

Traditional kistkas


The size of the kistka refers to the thickness of the line that it draws. Traditional kistkas are like pencils with wood handles and a copper end that is held over the candle flame and heated, then held gently against the beeswax. The beeswax will melt and fill the kistka and then the wax flows through the opening and can be applied to the egg. Nowadays many professionals use electric kistkas, which are great because they maintain temperature and are a lot faster to use than the traditional kistkas, but they also take a lot of practice to get used to. I use both types but always find myself going back to the traditional type of kistka. I highly recommend learning to make pysanky with traditional kistkas.


Beeswax block


A natural colored beeswax block is used with the traditional kistka, and black colored beeswax is used for the electric kistka. This is because the electric kistka will not blacken the wax when heating it, and the candle flame will.



Traditional kistkas












If you enjoyed this post, you might also like my post on Batik:
Beautiful Batik: What it is & How it's made

Have you ever made pysanky? 
Please leave a comment below! 



I hope you have a great week! 

Laura



My broken china jewelry is always available for purchase at https://www.etsy.com/shop/dishfunctionldesigns



Wednesday, April 13, 2011

How To Make Necklaces With Vintage Keys




In my last blog post I discussed my basic design process for working with a unique focal element, in this case, some fantastic vintage & antique keys that I came across at a flea market last summer. I also discussed the basics of choosing complimentary materials such as beads, and the “laying out,” or organization of the design. The following post will discuss the fabrication of those keys into a piece of unique, one of a kind piece of jewelry.

Below are two styles of necklaces made with keys:


Vertically Hung Key With Beaded Chain





Horizontally Hung Key Necklace





Materials List for both projects


Vintage Keys


WD-40 and paper towels to clean up your keys and remove rust


Coordinating wire: Brass or copper work well. For the necklaces shown, I used Beadalon ColourCraft Permanently Colored Copper Wire in Brown (20 gauge) and Zebra Wire Colored Copper Wire in Brown in 18, 22 and 26 gauge

Antique finish brass or copper chain (for horizontally hung necklace)

Antique finish brass or copper jump rings (for horizontally hung necklace)

Antique finish brass or copper clasps (toggle and or lobster-claw style)

A variety of gemstone and glass beads

Round nose pliers

Flush-cut pliers

Chain nose pliers

*Aside from the keys, most items listed above are available through Fire Mountain Gems Jewelry Supply http://www.firemountaingems.com/


FABRICATION

If you find that your keys are a little rusty, spray them with WD-40 and clean well with paper towels. Because the keys I used were a nice, rusty brown, I decided to use brown colored copper wire for my necklaces. I liked the keys hung both vertically and horizontally so I decided to make both styles. Below are the instructions for both.


Vertical Key Necklace: 
beaded chain technique with toggle clasp


*For these necklace you will need to know how to make a basic wrapped loop. This is a simple technique that is basic to jewelry making.If you do not know how to make a wrapped loop, directions can be found here: http://www.firemountaingems.com/beading_howtos/beading_projects.asp?docid=652t



Step 1. Cut a 2.5” piece of wire and connect one end to the hole in the top of the key with a basic wrapped loop. (For this style I used the 20 gauge wire)


Detail of wrapped wire loops attached to key


Step 2. Place a bead onto the other end of the wire and complete the end with another closed, wrapped loop.

Step 3. Repeat your next section with another section of 2.5” wire, this time connecting one end of the wire to the previously finished beaded loop. Again, place a bead on the wire, and complete the unfinished wire end with another wrapped loop.

Step 4. Continue repeating this “wire, bead, loop” process until you have created one entire side of beaded chain in the length that you desire. (I made each side of my necklace approx. 10”, for a total finished necklace length of 21” including key and clasp.)

Step 5. Repeat steps one through four to create the other side of your beaded chain.

Step 6. Attaching the toggle clasp: When you have finished your beaded chain in the length that you desire, attach your clasp. Using the same wrapped loop technique, attach the “bar” part of the toggle clasp to one side of your beaded chain and the “loop” part of the toggle clasp to the other side of your beaded chain. That's it! You are finished!

Detail of toggle clasp attached with wire wrapped loops



Directions for Horizontal Key Necklace:



Step 1. Place key horizontally on table. Cut a 3” piece of wire and connect one end to the hole in the top of the key with a basic wrapped loop. (For this style I used the 20 gauge wire).


   Step 2. Place a bead onto the other end of the wire and complete the end with another closed, wrapped loop.

   Step 3. Cut another 3” piece of wire and with a wrapped loop, connect one end to other, opposite end of the key, wrapping the wire around the body of the key to the inside of the key’s teeth.

   Step 4. Place a bead onto the other end of the wire and complete the end with another closed, wrapped loop.


Step 5. Continue this technique using 2.5” lengths of wire and beads, until you have the beaded look you want; I used two beads on one end of the key and four on the other end of the key. *Do NOT wrap the open end of the wire after your last bead.

Step 6. Cut two lengths of chain (I used two 10” lengths of chain) and now making a loop in the wire after your last bead, thread the chain onto the loop and wrap the end. Repeat with other side. Your lengths of chain are now attached to each side of your necklace.

 Step 7. Attaching the clasp: At the end of each length of your chain you will attach your clasp. For this style necklace I used a lobster claw style clasp. Use a jump ring to attach the clasp to one side of your chain and complete the other side of your chain with another jump ring. You are finished!

Lobster-claw style clasp


A different color combination: Citrine and Honey Jade



Pink Rhodonite gemstone beads


If you have any questions, feel free to post them below!
- Laura